In 1594 a Portuguese ship sighted the main island of Taiwan and dubbed it “Ilha Formosa,” which means “beautiful island.” Although Taiwan (formerly Formosa) has been part of the Chinese empire for a very long time, the aboriginal inhabitants are not even related to the Chinese, but came from the islands of the Pacific.

The Chinese only arrived in large numbers after 1600, when the Dutch East India Company established trading posts and forts on the island. After they defeated the Dutch in 1662, they gained control over the island and stayed until the end of the 19th century when the Japanese took over. They also left their mark on the island, remaining in control until after World War 2, when they were succeeded by Chiang Kai-shek and the Kuomintang.

How can I begin to write about my trip to Taiwan except to use the Portuguese word “Saudade”? “Saudade” is a word that envelopes so many emotions: nostalgia, longing, yearning, love, friendship, desire, etc. No other language has a word like it. Taiwan was once called “Formosa”, another Portuguese word which means “beautiful.”

I was last in Taiwan when my husband, Richard, served in Vietnam between 1968-1970. Our family was not allowed to go to Vietnam, so I went to Taipei, the capital of Taiwan, with my two young children. We were 180 wives with no husbands.

Since then Taiwan has changed so much that I did not know the place, but all for the better. It is a wealthy and vibrant island with hard working, polite people. They especially stress the importance of a good education for its youth.

I wanted to see my older sister, Amy, because her third son Michael had written to tell me she had been ill. It had been many years since I last saw her, as well as her three sons and their families. I did not want to linger over my decision for fear I might change my mind. I booked my ticket and left four days later. None of my family members could go with me, so I was quite nervous about flying half-way around the world alone. I had never gone anywhere without Dick, even on short trips. I closed my mind and refused to think negative thoughts, especially about the typhoon that was pounding the southern part of the island causing devastation and death.

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My twin sister, Lu, and I were thirteen years old when we left behind everybody we loved and everything we owned in Beijing, China. At 4 AM one cold November morning, we were awakened by my father, my mother, and the Mother Superior from the French School, “Sacre Coeur,” which we attended. We were each handed a small suitcase with some clothing, but no money or any identity documents. When the small plane took us away, I could see my parents and Mother Superior standing on the ground, waving goodbye to us. I can see that image just as clearly today as I did then.

We were sent to Nanking and then on to southern Taiwan to live with my sister Amy. The next three years were so traumatic and so sad, that I cannot remember the place we lived in, the bed I slept on, or what I ate. I do remember that we were given private lessons in English, French and Chinese. It was tough and we missed our friends from the French School. Our parents had gone into hiding and none of us knew where they were.

When I was sixteen, I read in the daily paper that the French Embassy was looking for a French speaking social secretary. It was on a Thursday that I rode the train from Kaoshiung to Taipei. I took a pedicab and went to the Embassy. The Ambassador hired me and told me I would be picked up by a chauffeur on Monday to start work. He would be paying me in U.S dollars. It was so much money that I was totally speechless. I was going to be FILTHY RICH! After I left the Embassy, I realized that I had no place to live and almost no money. Once again I bought a newspaper and saw an advertisement that read, “Mrs. Wong, wife of a member of the Legislative Yuan, is looking for an English teacher for six hours a week and will provide room and board.” I took a pedicab to her house to see if I could land that job too. She hired me and I moved in that night. How lucky I was! My life has been a series of fortunate occurrences that always seemed to pop up when I needed them most.

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Strings of firecrackers explode in the air and a fierce dragon leaps and weaves from side to side. My ears are pleasantly bombarded with gongs and clashing symbols. It’s that time of year again for best wishes and congratulations, Chinese New Year.

This year it’s the Year of the Ox, and it falls on January 26, 2009. If you are an Ox, you are bright, patient, and inspirational to others. You will make a wonderful parent, and can be quite content to be by yourself. If you are thinking of getting married, think about marrying a Snake or a Cock, and not a Sheep, as this will get you into trouble. Or at least that is what I was told growing up in China.

The Chinese use a lunar calendar with the length of each month determined by the cycles of the moon. Each New Year is given the name of an animal. There are twelve animal symbols on the Chinese zodiac. It is said that a person born under the symbol of a certain animal inherits its trait. Chinese learn about their fortune and future by their animal symbol. Each animal has good and bad traits, and why Chinese people are often unwilling to give you their age.

Chinese families make great preparations for this special occasion. Before the New Year arrives, families settle all their debts, buy new clothes and shoes, make sure all food and dry goods containers are full, and the house is sparkling clean. Special foods are prepared, sometimes a month ahead. Homes are filled with flowers and fruits. Pyramids are made of apples and oranges for good luck, as red and orange are the colors of joy. These colors are everywhere. Chinese characters written on scrolls carry messages of Good Luck, Health, Long Life, and Prosperity.

On the eve of the New Year, Chinese people celebrate at a reunion banquet. Offerings are made to family ancestors. Certain doors and windows are sealed with red good-luck papers. Many sweets made of sticky rice are offered to the kitchen gods. They are so sticky that when the gods arrive in heaven their mouths are stuck together so that they cannot say bad things.

Children can stay up all night and play. Gifts are exchanged, and children and servants are given money in little red envelopes. This is good-luck money. Then there are deafening explosions of firecrackers to scare away evil and lazy spirits.

On New Year’s morning, everything must be perfect. What happens on the first day may decide events for the coming year. Everyone does and says the right things, thinks good thoughts, and speaks only kind words. You hear “Kung Shi Fa Tsai” everywhere. We apologize to people we have offended and make new resolutions for the coming year. At the community carnival, we watch Tai Chi, Chinese boxing, lion dancing, art exhibits, and many other activities. Delicious food is served. Lion dancers move to the beat of giant drums. Gongs and cymbals are loud and fast. The lion twists and turns.

At night there will be a Golden Dragon parade. The fierce, bright-eyed dragon with many legs will lead the parade. The dragon is a sacred animal, a symbol of strength and goodness. Each year, the dragon appears in order to wish everyone peace, prosperity, and good luck. Sometimes the dragon chases a round object. If the object is red, it is the sun; if it is white, it is a big white pearl, which is a symbol of wealth and power. Children carry lanterns of all shapes and sizes. Then there are weapon bearers and musicians, followed by beautiful fireworks and deafening aerial bombs.

What a party! What a New Year! What a full stomach!